‘ Yes, the newspapers were right: snow was general all over Ireland. It was falling softly on the bog of Allen and, further westwards, softly falling on the dark mutinous Shannon waves.’ The Dead James Joyce Joyce was right but the newspapers – along with the
The Fourth K in Kars: Kahvalti See More Common sense, science and tasty food don’t often overlap. But in the Venn Diagram of Kahvalti, they do. Kahvalti means simply ‘under coffee’, telling us that the solid breakfast is eaten before caffeine is ingested. It varies from the simple
THE THIRD K IN KARS See More Kars Castle 1877 The Castle (Kale) of Kars stands on an ancient tumescence in the landscape of Eastern Anatolia, overlooking the Kars River. It’s the sort of impressive eminence you see five hours drive away, down south, in Van Castle: a
My plane, having crossed Anatolia, West to East, it seemed to spend forever descending through the snow clouds over Kars. Then, all of a rush, we were swishing along the snow smothered landing strip. We pulled up beside a great green military plane and deplaned, as the
There are at least 4 K’s in the Eastern Turkish city of Kars, next door to the Armenian border: Kale (Kars Castle), Kaz (the local delicacy – goose), Kar (the snow now widespread over the town). And Kangal, the rather substantial Anatolian shepherd’s dog : never tangle