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  My plane, having crossed Anatolia, West to East, it seemed to spend forever descending through the snow clouds over Kars. Then, all of a rush, we were swishing along the snow smothered landing strip. We pulled up beside a great green military plane and deplaned, as the

  There are at least 4 K’s in the Eastern Turkish city of Kars, next door to the Armenian border: Kale (Kars Castle), Kaz (the local delicacy – goose), Kar (the snow now widespread over the town). And Kangal, the rather substantial Anatolian shepherd’s dog : never tangle